Chimneys need periodic examination and thorough cleaning to maintain efficiency and to reduce the chance of a chimney fire. Build-up of creosote and soot that accumulates on the chimney walls reduces the draft needed by the stove or fireplace which may cause smoke to come out the opening or door.  Creosote is flammable and can easily fuel a chimney fire.  Methodical cleanings through the heating season combined with proper burning of fuel and systematic use of effective creosote and soot inhibitors, provides the best solution for trouble-free performance. If a fire has occurred, have your chimney thoroughly inspected by a certified professional before attempting to use it again.  Dramatic results occur in a chimney regularly with liquid creosote remover as seen top image on the right.

CAUTION: When cleaning chimneys by any method, wear appropriate eye protection, gloves and an approved dust mask. Cover fireplace opening or stove and all rugs and furniture in work area. Soot and corrosive debris from cleaning may cause damage. Work that requires ladders and working on the roof should only be done by competent experienced individuals with proper safety precautions. For your own safety, be aware of electrical and fire hazards at all times. Use caution when handling brushes, tempered spring like brush wire can injure eyes and puncture skin. Keep brushes away from children. All sizes and types of chimney brushes and chimney cleaning accessories are available.

Equipment Needed to Clean a Chimney:

In order to properly clean your chimney you will need the following items.  Make sure you have a Correctly sized chimney brush, chimney brush rods or rope and pull rings (depending on method used), fireplace cover (for use with an ash vacuum or to contain dust), protective covering for furniture and rugs, tape, metal bucket, small shovel and broom, vacuum cleaner, and a powerful flashlight.

Chimney Cleaning Directions:

Measure your chimney carefully to determine the correct brush size to select. Carefully measure the inside of the chimney tile or pre-fabricated chimney diameter. NOTE: An oversize brush will not improve cleaning action and could become lodged in the chimney. An undersize brush will not provide the pressure on the walls for proper cleaning.

IMPORTANT: TIGHTEN ALL FITTINGS SECURELY – COMPLETELY EXTINGUISH THE FIRE BEFORE CLEANING. BE SURE THE CHIMNEY IS COLD ALONG ITS LENGTH. BE AWARE OF HOT ASHES AND DISPOSE OF PROPERLY.

There are four common methods used to control the brush for effective cleaning.

1. Flexible Rod Method, Top Down (Preferred Method): Seal off fireplace or stove opening to prevent soot from entering the home. For fireplaces the Fireplace Cover is a great way to seal off the opening and allow a vacuum cleaner to attach to keep the dust out of your home. Attach the brush securely to the flexible rod and lower into the top of the chimney, add more rods as necessary to reach the flue bottom. Work the brush up and down several times until the chimney is clean. Use a powerful flashlight to look into the chimney to be sure you have cleaned it completely. Follow clean-up directions below.
   Note: For chimneys that have tight bends you should consider the ProFlex or Lock-Fast rods since they are very flexible yet have the strength to push a brush down the chimney. In some cases the Super Flexible rods will do a good job but they are very flexible with light-duty strength.
2. Flexible Rod Method, Bottom-up: Insert brush and rod up through the fireplace damper or chimney clean-out door. Add more rods as necessary to reach the top of the chimney. This method is often messy since sealing the opening cannot be done during cleaning. Professionals use the August West SootSweeper II system to pull dust and creosote particles from the air as the the chimney is being cleaned. Cover area around opening to prevent staining rugs, furniture, etc… Use a powerful flashlight to look into the chimney to be sure you have cleaned it completely. Work the brush up and down several times until the chimney is clean. Follow clean-up directions below.
   Note: For fireplaces that have a clean-out where you want to brush the chimney from the bottom-up. You will most likely need a flexible rod that will make a quick bend yet have the strength to force the brush up the chimney. In these conditions we recommend using the ProFlex or Lock-Fast rods since they are very flexible yet have the strength to push a brush up the chimney.
3. Line and Weight Method: Seal off fireplace or stove opening to prevent soot from entering the home. Securely attach a compact 20-pound (minimum) weight to one end of the brush with one accessory pull ring and attach a rope that is more than long enough to reach the bottom of the flue, to the other brush end. Lower the brush into the chimney and up again until the chimney is clean. Use a powerful flashlight to look into the chimney to be sure you have cleaned it completely. Follow clean-up directions below.
4. Dual Line Method: This method requires two people, one on the roof and one below at the clean-out or fireplace opening. Attach one rope to each end of the brush. Drop one rope down the chimney to the person below. Cleaning is done by alternately pulling the ropes to vigorously move the brush up and down in the flue. This method is often messy since sealing off the opening cannot be done during cleaning. Professionals use the August West SootSweeper II system to pull dust and creosote particles from the air as the the chimney is being cleaned. Cover area around opening to prevent staining of rugs, furniture, etc… Work the brush up and down several times until the chimney is clean. Use a powerful flashlight to look into the chimney to be sure you have cleaned it completely. Follow clean-up directions below.

For All Methods:  Sweep or vacuum up all residues prior to using stove or fireplace. Be especially careful to check the debris behind the damper and smoke shelf area, in elbows or “T” connections. Special hand held chimney cleaning brushes are available to reach hard-to-clean areas. Clean a wire bristle chimney brush after use and coat with a rust preservative. During the burning season we highly recommend the use of Anti-Creo-Soot or another creosote remover product to reduce the build-up of creosote deposits.

This a tougher question than it sounds. The simple answer is: The National Fire Protection Association Standard 211 says, “Chimneys, fireplaces, and vents shall be inspected at least once a year for soundness, freedom from deposits, and correct clearances. Cleaning, maintenance, and repairs shall be done if necessary.” This is the national safety standard and is the correct way to approach the problem. It takes into account the fact that even if you don’t use your chimney much, animals may build nests in the flue or there may be other types of deterioration that could make the chimney unsafe to use.

The Chimney Safety Institute of America recommends that open masonry fireplaces should be cleaned at 1/8″ of sooty buildup, and sooner if there is any glaze present in the system. Factory-built fireplaces should be cleaned when any appreciable buildup occurs. This is considered to be enough fuel buildup to cause a chimney fire capable of damaging the chimney or spreading to the home.

I agree. Take me to the CHIMNEY SWEEPING tutorial.

I agree. Take me to the CHIMNEY INSPECTIONS tutorial.

Why fireplaces work, and how best to build them, has been a topic of hot debate literally for centuries. From the first stone rings stacked around the campfire, to the modern factory built fireplaces with carefully engineered dimensions, there has been a steady evolution of design parameters to make sure they draw well and cast as much heat as possible. Most of this evolution has been by trial and error, and some designs work much better than others.

Simply put, fireplaces work mainly because hot air rises. When you start a fire, the air inside the chimney becomes warmer and less dense than the air outside the chimney, and consequently it starts to rise. As the warm air rises, cooler air from the room flows into the firebox, fanning the fire, creating more heat in an ongoing cycle. There are also some pressure differentials produced as wind moves across the top of your chimney.

There must be at least 100 reasons why your fireplace may not function properly. We will try to cover some of the basics here starting with the easy obvious solutions and working towards the more arcane. Please bear in mind this is a very simplified list of the more common reasons that fireplaces don’t work A true understanding of fireplaces requires extensive knowledge of air flow patterns, pressure differentials, and actual fireplace construction techniques. If the information provided here does not help you solve the problem with your fireplace, consider hiring an experienced, certified chimney sweep in your area. Often the problem is obvious to someone with enough experience once they can acutally look over the entire situation.

Read More Info By Unlocking Here